KHAJURAHO TEMPLES: Marvels of ancient architecture, art, and philosophy

 Shashi Chiplonkar

Khajuraho temples are thousands of years' old and are more famous for the erotic sculptures attracting tourist from all over the world. However out of all the sculptures on these temples, not more than 10% depict eroticism. Furthermore, these sculptures are considered as symbolizing fertility as a part of human life and also interpreted as a union of Shiva and Shakti. Another meaning behind the erotic sculptures appears to be of a tantric cult that are actually metaphors, a form of language, for educating people about the philosophical essence of human life. Many books, articles and videos have described the art and architecture of Khajuraho temples. In this blog, I am elucidating my experience about the Khajuraho temple complex when I visited in November, 2022. Our trip was organized by Samyana Tours (SAMYANA TOURS LLP in Pune, India (thesamyana.in)) and expert Indologists Mr Anand Kanitkar and Ms Vidya Gadre were with us to explain the art, history and philosophy of the sculptures.

Khajuraho temples complex is a UNESCO World heritage site in Chhatarpur district of Madhya Pradesh, India, about 175 km south-east of Jhansi city. These are mainly Hindu and Jain temples, and were built by Chandela kings, Yashovarman, Dhangdev and Vidyadhar, between 950 to 1050 CE. The name ’Khajuraho’ of this place might have been due to ample khajur (date palm) trees in this area. Another possibility is that the name has come from the word Kharjura-vahaka (scorpian bearer), a symbolic name of Shiva.

Khajuraho temple complex spread over 21 sq.km, originally consisted of 85 temples. Now there are only 25 temples remaining and are grouped in three areas, ‘Western”, “Eastern” and ‘Southern”. Ten temples are dedicated to the Hindu God Vishnu, 8 to Shiva, one temple to Sun God, one to the 64 Yoginis (goddesses) and 5 to the Jain tirthankaras of the Digambar sect. An inscribed image of Hanuman and that of seated Buddha have also been found at this site. Though the temples contain sculptures of Gods, daily Pooja is performed only in Matangeshwar temple.

The “Western” group of temples is near the Shivsagar lake and contains most of the famous temples that are in good condition; namely, Lakshman or Vaikunth-Vishnu temple (built by King Yashovarman in CE. 954), Varah temple (built in CE. 940), Vishwanath temple (built by King Dhangdeva, inscribed CE. 999), Matangeshwar (CE. 1000) and Kandariya Mahadev temple (built by King Viyadhar, CE. 1030). The 64 Yoginis temple (an open-air sanctuary, CE. 900) is at the southwest side the Shivsagar Lake.

Khajuraho temples’ architecture is according to Nagara (Northern) style. Temple is built on a platform (Jagati), with an entrance porch (Ardha Mandapa) leading to a hall (Mandapa and Mahamandapa). Then there is a narrow passage (Antarala) which leads to the main sanctum (Garbhagriha – womb room), wherein the statue or sculpture of God is situated. There is a small path around the sanctum (Pradakshina marg). The tall tapering spire (Shikhara), with a special shaped vessel (Kalash) rises above the temple. One can see the decorative sculptures portraying Hindu culture on every part of the temple, including entrance, outer walls, pillars in the Mandapas, and ceilings. It is believed that the style and sculptures of these temples represent the fundamental principles of entire cosmos. The art and architectural precision make the Khajuraho temples gorgeous and unique in conveying social, cultural and emotional aspects of human life in those times.

1)      Lakshmana (Vaikunth Vishinu) Temple

                                       Lord Vishnu

     Narsinh avatar                              Deities on outer wall      

      

                                                     

    

Roof of the Garbhgruh of Vishnu temple.        Entrance door of Vishnu temple.

In the Lakshmana temple, the collective images of planetary divinities (grahas) are seen on the exterior plinth, as if encircling the temple. The temple is considered to be the mythical mountain Meru, the center of the universe, around which planets revolve. There are inscriptions and architectural plans/designs of the temples. The measurements are described in terms of number of fingers, length of forearm and total height of a man for height of platform, steps, and human figures. 

A light and sound show is presented every evening around 7.30 pm in front of the main Laxman temple, which describes the love story of a beautiful woman named Hemavathy and the God Moon. From their son Chandravarman, the Chandela dynesty started and the show narrates the stories about creation of temples by the successive Chandela kings.

    

 Chausath Yogini Temple – It is rare to find 64 Yogini temple anywhere in India. This temple stands on the small rocky platform to the southwest of the Shivsagar lake. The temple is built entirely of granite and is oriented north-east and south-west (CE. 900). The temple has an area of about 104 feet long and 60 feet breadth. There are 65 small cells, one cell was dedicated to Goddess Kali and the remaining 64 were dedicated to the Yoginis. Currently only 35 cells have survived. No images or statues remained on any of the cells. The cells have a roof as shikharas, and the lower part has triangular ornaments in imitation of the chaitya windows.

64 Yogini temple hill                                                      64 Yogini temple ruins

                                        

Kali temple cell

Kandariya Mahadev temple:

A large temple of Shiva is believed to have a shape of Mountain Meru, and considered as the center of all physical and spiritual universe. The temple symbolises the yantra plan of the sanctum, cosmic mountain Meru in multi-stepped spire giving a visual expression of Shaiva metaphysical system.  

   

Mahadev temple                                         Inner sculpture of Shiva lingam

Matangeshwar temple: This is a Shiva temple (with 8 ft high lingam), located next to Lakshman temple. It is the only temple in Khajuraho wherein Pooja takes place and a 10-day festival is observed for Maha Shivaratri. 

     Brahma temple: 

                        

     

  Varaha temple: The statue of the boar (Varaha Avatar of Lord Vishnu) bears images and inscriptions.

  

    “Eastern” group comprises of Jain temples; Parshwanath (CE. 955), Ghantai (CE. 970) and Adinath (CE. 1075), mostly built by merchants. Recently, Archeological Survey of India (ASI) have excavated in the northeastern area, early Chandel (pre-CE 950) sculptures and architectural remains of a temple complex, affiliated to Vaman avatar of Lord Vishunu (Dwarf incarnation). 

PPParshwanath temple: 

    

     

b         Vaman temple:

  

The Southern group includes the Chaturbhuj temple (c.1100) having a majestic 9 ft tall icon of Vishnu- some scholars believe it to represent the Dakshinamurti form of Shiva- and the Duladeva temple (c.1130). New excavations at the Bijamandla mound, revealed remians of an 11^th century Vaidyanath Shiva temple (112 ft long), the largest discovered at this site.

Chaturbhuj temple:

It is in Jatkari village built around CE. 1100. This temple contains a nine feet high, four-armed image of Lord Vishnu with a crown and ornaments. The upper right hand is in Abhay mudra (giving blessing) with a circular mark on palm, and a lotus is held in the left hand. A sacred book is also tied on the left hand with a string. Sculptures of Hindu gods and goddesses including Lakshmi, Brahma, and Shiva are seen in three rows at the entrance to the temple. This temple has no erotic sculptures.     

   

Chaturbhuj murti
        

                                    

Decorative Roof

Architecture and Sculptures of Khajuraho Temples complex: 

   

  

 

  

 

Intricate sculptures on the walls and ceilings of the temples:

The sculptures include main three types of images; the first ones are seen near the entrance of the gandharvas, ashta dikpals, attendants and shiv ganas. Second type of images on the outer walls are of beautiful women in various poses show daily activities such as doing shringar (makeup), caressing a child, or in a dancing pose. Third type are loving couples (mithunas), 

 

  

  

All the four aspects of human life; Dharma (righteousness), Artha (money), Kama (sex) and Moksha (spiritual release) are portrayed on the outer walls of the temples.  Some scenes show social activities like a group of musicians playing different instruments, a guru (teacher) teaching his disciples, and people going with camels, horses with weapons.

 

Erotic sculptures:

In Hindu and Jain religion, sex has often been considered to have a philosophical and spiritual base. These temples advocate Tantric philosophy, which says that these erotic images have a different hidden meaning to achieve Moksha or enlightenment. On the outer walls of many temples, especially of the Lakshman temple, there are many images of loving couples in erotic poses. These sculptures are skillfully carved human figures, expressing soft emotions, interactions and affection. One interpretation says that these sculptures show tantric ritual which leads to a path of moksha. Kapalika in Shaiva panth and Tantric in Vaishnava panth were known for their particular rituals. According to Kapalik saint Gorakhnath, the sculpture, where a woman (dombini) is shown sitting on the neck, is a part of a ritual pointing towards a “naadi” (pulse) in the neck. This suggests that “kundalini” has aroused in the chakra in neck and from there it will travel through “sar-chakra” (head/brain). The sculptures of deities like Brahma, Vishnu, Mahesh on one side on walls, and pleasure, desires on the other side, teach the viewer the concepts of righteousness (dharma) and philosophy of life.

Another point of view about these erotic sculptures indicates the divine union of Shiva and Shakti to maintain cosmic balance. Shiva is the creative consciousness, supreme inner soul and Shakti is the pure energy, the supreme body. Their union implies the life cycle of destruction and evolution.

The spiritual interpretation of the images is supported by the location of the erotic sculptures on the walls, before entering the temple and the garbhgruha (womb room).  Hinduism says to leave the desires and earthly longings outside and then enter the temple with a pure mind. These images may help to educate the viewer to move beyond the physical pleasure into higher spiritual goals. 

----------------- ***** ------------------- ***** ------------------ ***** ------------ ***** ---------